Happy New year 2010!

Happy new years! we have just come back from Volocán Tajumulco, the highest point in Central America. Here is a pic of our crew before we started. After the climb everyone was not as animated. Like my finger in the corner? This was the first time we saw snow in Guate and I hope it´s the last. Here is the summit as we approached. The climb up the slope was very easy after doing Santa Maria; much more distance than vertical climbing. We camped over the night, but the moon was almost full and the stars were out shone. You can just see the moon in this pic. Here is our tent for the night. At 4,222 meters, it was the coldest night we had in Guatemala. Our Canadian friend Chris and I climbed the smaller summit and got these photos before sunset.
At 5 AM we trekked the remaining slope and watched the sunrise. At the top, locals set off fireworks and stood around fires to keep warm in the wind. We were lucky to see Volcán Santiaguito erupt in the morning light. It´s the fourth bump in the horizon in this pic. The cold was unbearable at this height Here is a shot of our climb down, you can see the snow that is in the shadows of the slope. Being above the clouds was surreal. The decent was long but the view was better than we expected.
I´ll write more later but we are about to go out to party. Happy New Year!

Yes, we are still alive

Today is new years eve and i have been drinking rum with Marvin since the morning. Oops! Kylie is feeling bad in the stomach so I thought the blog would be good to update. The 29th, Sunday, we took a chicken bus to Chichicastenango, a very touristy town that is renowned for is local textiles, but I feel that it´s too touristy. After a two hour ride on a bus we arrived. It was full of tourist and all of the vendors were selling goods directed towards the gringo crowd. Every vendor tried to sell good at three times the price to us, but soon asked for less when we just walked away. Ruby, our friend from Australia, bought almost a thousand quetzales in good for family back home. We were in the market the whole day. Here is a pic of the local cemetery. ChiChi was fun but too exploited to be really Guatemalan.

Xela livin...

DAY 17: Thurs, Dec. 10th

School per usual in the morning. During the afternoon, Brian did some studying and I went to volunteer for the first time at the shelter. My job is to go and help out with the children there so that their mothers can take care of things around the shelter, go out and work, and just have a little time to themselves. There are about 8 or so women at the shelter now and about 4 of them each gave birth in the past few months. All the babies are pretty well-behaved and extremely tiny! The other children range from about 1 year old to about 8 years old, a mix of boys and girls, however the boys definitely out-number the girls. The shelter is in a secret location in Xela so to protect the women and their children who have left their abusers. I was told that most the women are not from Xela, but have come here seeking help, and that none of their abusers are actively seeking them out, although that has been the case in the past. The shelter is one of two in Guatemala and provides much needed help, like psychological, legal, and job coaching help, to the women free of charge. In return, they are only required to respect each other and keep the shelter clean. It is the main goal of the shelter to help these women become independent by helping them find a job and making money to support themselves and their children. It is a great organization that is able to operate due to funding from the U.S and Europe. They also run a daycare in the outskirts of Xela for the children of single working mothers for a small fee of Q20 a month, which is about $US 2.50. Their website is if you care to check it out.

That evening we watched the first of two final soccer matches between Xelaju and Los Comunicaciones out of Guatemala. It was a pretty unexciting game ending 0-0. The next and final game for the championship will be on Sunday. We plan on attending, as we heard it is something we have to experience while in Xela. People that live in Xela have a lot of hometown respect and pride, which gets even bigger during futbol season!

DAY 18: Friday, Dec. 11th

Today ended 2 weeks of language classes, and that was enough for me! Also, every friday our school has a dinner, but this friday we decided on a barbeque lunch. It was delicious and held on top of the school on a patio overlooking the city. And the food was amazing. The teachers marinated some meat and cebolinas, which are kind of a hybrid onion and scallion, grilled it and served it with guacamole, beans, and bread. Marvin, the director, went out of his way and made some fish for me. It was tasty and greatly appreciated. And what accompanies an afternoon rooftop barbeque better than a handle or two of rum! Great start to friday, and everyone was feeling good.


Despite our lease, which clearly states "No fiestas," Brian and I had everyone over later that evening for a little house-warming and going away party for our UK friends that were leaving the next morning.
Margotritas were in order and made quite nicely by Brian, the most attentive host. As fast as Brian could make them, I was drinking them, as were the rest of our guests. We had quite the turn-out and by 10:30 we decided to move the party onto a bar. We went to Pool and Beer aka Portfino, a bar fully equipped with pool, pizza, and beer other than Gallo! Brian was in heaven while drinking a stout! The party doesn´t end there as we made our way to the "Burn da Devil Rave." Once there, Brian and I were able to get our ridiculous dance moves out and drink a beer, and then decided that yes indeed the party ends here.
The next day we visited Momostgnango, a town near Xela.
Here are stalagstits but not inside of a cave. We past Los Riscos on our way to take a look at how the famous wool blankets are made. Marvin, led us into a family home, where this man was happy to show us his craft and equipment.
It is quite the long process of getting the wool from the sheep, making it into yarn and dying if necessary, and weaving the blanket and adding designs. The last step is done to make the blanket a little flatter and more compact. This is done by stepping on the blanket and then combing it with a special brush made from what looks like those pesky burrs that get stuck in animal fur and clothing. The whole process takes about two weeks, and he sells his blankets for about Q250 or less. One of the students we were with bought one for Q150 or about $US 18.00.

On our chicken bus ride back to Xela, we managed to loose our phone, so we have a new number. 502 4892 3894

Okay, well game was two weeks ago so I´m writing from memory. Yikes! We were in the stadium by seven for the eight o´clock game.
is nothing like going to Fenway. Although I bet the stadium is just as old. They don´t sell beer inside! But the fans sure didn´t need the alcohol. In the "seats" we got great examples of hometown pride; yelling at the refs, cursing the other team, and setting off fireworks among the people. Road flares were popular and awful to breath in. Some officials set off a hot-air balloon over the crowd. The first two caught fire shortly after being released, which resulted in a flaming ball falling onto the fans accompanied by screams of terror. Luckily the two balloons after were successful and floated off into the sky. At some points, the teams were playing around the lit fireworks that were tossed onto the field. The game was pretty uneventful, the only goals scored were on penalties. Unfortunately, the Super Chivos lost, 1 to 1 but with 4 penalties to 3. The fans did a poor job of hiding their disappointment. We got out of there before it got ugly.

DAY 20: Monday, Dec. 14th

Brian went to school and I was left to my own devices. I had a volunteer meeting to sign up for days to volunteer and met a new arrival to Xela. She was looking for an apartment so I showed her a couple places Brian and I had looked at earlier.

Apparently, los remolachas (beets) in Guatemala are delicious, so we had to buy some. But, what to do with 'em? Beet soup! I have to give the credit to Brian on this one as it was delcious. Beets, carrots, onion, garlic, ginger, and broth: blend it all together and you've got yourself some delicious soup.

Later in the evening Brian and I went to El Infinito Veggie Lounge to partake in a charity poker game benefiting Trama Textiles, a fairtrade weaving organization. The game was not up to Brian´s Texas Hold 'Em standards, so after returning home, he went out to the real casino to play some more. He did quite well winning, and drinking his winnings that he came home for more money! Atleast he is learning his numbers...and some Guatemalan swears.

DAY 21: Tuesday, Dec. 15th

In an attempt to work on my spanish, while Brian was in class, I spent a good two hours talking with Marvin. We were suppose to talk half in spanish and half in english so as to benefit both of us, but we got a little carried away in spanish. We had some interesting talks which ranged from what he really wanted to do with his life to Guatemala's lack of care for the disabled, mental and physical.

Later in the evening, Brian had to go back to the Casino, because two guys had lent him a couple quetzales to buy back into the game last night. This led into another night of poker playing. Brian really seems to enjoy learning his numbers!

DAY 22: Wednesday, Dec. 16th

A morning at the shelter playing the play-dough! Some of which was hardened and ready for painting. After the other volunteer left, I decided I would try to play a game with them. It is a little bit like musical chairs, but with an added aspect of acting. So the kids are suppose to run around, and when I say stop, they sit down. Whoever is left without a chair is suppose to act like a type of animal and the other kids have to guess. Let´s just say that in theory it is a great idea. The last part of my volunteer time was spent running around and getting my hands "eaten" by a parrot puppet.

Day 23: Thursday, Dec. 17th

The next day at the shelter, we made cars and spaceships out of empty boxes and toilet paper rolls. (Thanks to the other volunteers) The second half I played ball with one of the boys. It's amazing how long one can be entertained throwing a ball back and forth! After, I went with another volunteer from Australia to Hiper Pais, which is basically a Guatemalan Walmart.

For dinner, Brian made a delicious eggplant lasagna with vegetables he bought in the market!

Day 5 - 15 What the hell have we been doing for the past 10 days??

Brian and I have been quite busy these last few days with Spanish classes and the afternoon activities they provide, staying with a host family and looking for an apartment, and, overall, adjusting to life in a new country! So, let's backtrack a little to where we left off.

DAY 5 fri, 27 went a little like this...

Got a phone for use during the trip. You are more than welcome to call us at any time at country code 502-4941-8256, as it is free for us to receive calls. It is most wise to buy a calling card at your local CVS than to use a cell-phone or home landline.

As we walked around the city, we saw our first of many funerals. They have a different ritual for funerals here, which includes walking through the streets towards the cemetery either carrying the casket, with it strapped to the top of a car, or inside the car. It is very interesting to witness....You might say Brian and I were a little shocked to see this and by the frequency in which you encounter them in the streets.

Anyways, back at Casa Argentinas, the hostel we stayed at for the first few nights in Xela, we had an interesting evening (after a few beers) trying to get rid of a fly and mosquito that had made their way into our room. After some cold showers (where is the agua caliente in Guatemala?) we went out for some pizza since Brian was craving it. We haven't even been gone a week and he needs some pizza!

DAY 6 sat 28

We walked all over Xela searching out the best language school. We narrowed down over 20 schools to 3: Utatlan, El Portal, Sakribal. Each had their own appeal. Utatlan was a famed party school, which was recommended to us by a fellow traveler. El Portal was the most economical, and we met the secretary of the school at our hostel. And Sakribal was the most professional with a scholarship program for women. Which did we choose? Without a doubt we went with Utatlan!

DAY 7 sunday, 29

Good choice, I must say since the very next day we went with the school on an outing to Laguna Chicabal in San Martin. We go to take a chicken bus for the first time! And it was exciting indeed full of people and bumps and no speed limits with sketchy break systems! We arrived in a pueblo near San Martin during their busy market day, an adventure in itself. There is no sufficient way to describe an event like this, unless you experience it first-hand. However, I'll try my best. We entered this busy area with our first views being women passing chickens back and forth by their feet trying to assess which is bigger. We passed more baskets with chickens and kittens mixed together, an odd combination for sure. As we made it further inside the market, you realize there is no rhyme and reason to it all, but you can find pre-made food, veggies, rice, nuts, tools, bathing products, cds. You name it, it was there.

From there we went to San Martin where the lake is located. This lake is in an old volcano crater and is very important to the Mayan People. They believe that this site is where the Mayan god of rain (called Chicabal) is located because of the way the clouds move over the volcano and into the pueblo of San Martin. Right before the rainy season begins in April/May, the Mayan people come to this sacred lake for 50 days of praying and rituals in hopes of a good season. The walk to the nature reserve was on a road that was nothing less than straight uphill. Once we made it to the reserve it was nothing but straight uphill a path. We definitely got our workout! The lake and reserve was beautiful with plenty of impressing flora and fauna, hummingbirds, and butterflies. When we first arrived at the lake there was no vista at all do to the clouds, but we climbed down some steps to the shores of the lake in time to watch the clouds pass over and provide us with a view. A very stunning passing! We also took a walk about the lake to take it all in and view the multiple mayan altars situated around the lake.

After spending some time there, we made our way back to Xela via the bed of a pick-up truck. And equally satisfying adventure. And maybe one of the best ways to experience Guatemala. This same day we moved in with our host family, Marta y Julio. Extremely nice people, who have been hosting international students for 14 years.

Here is a shot of our host fam´s courtyard from our 2nd floor rooms and the view of Xela from the roof terrace. There were two other students when we moved in, Maria from Ireland and Garreth from England. Maria has been here for about 5 weeks and will be working near Antigua for 10 months after Christmas. Garreth is riding his bike through Central America! He started in Mexico and will make his way down to Panama. Go Garreth, Go!

Before I give you a detailed description of our week of classes and activities, I have to give a little shout out..... Yes, Emma. There is peanut butter in Guate, and it is quite delicious. Dare we say, better than Skippy?

DAY 7 mon, 30

First day of class...we should have taken a picture. Brian's teacher's name is Claudia and my teacher's name is Jacqui. Both are very nice and patient with us!

The school offers an activity every day after class and lunch. Today's was salsa. I had to drag Brian there, but in the end I think he came around. We learned three pasos or steps: basico, abierto, and the mumba. Thank god we had some beers beforehand. It definitely helped with some fluidity. And of course we had to wind down with the rest of the salsa-ing school gang with some more beers!

DAY 8 tues 1st

After class we went with the school to Almolomga, a rich agricultural town situated in an old volcano crater close to Xela. The town started as mostly Catholic, but when it began practicing agriculture, it became a very prosperous community. With this new-found wealth they began drinking a little more, eating at McDonalds and Pollo Campero (a Guatemalan KFC), and problems ensued. Unfortunately, there were more accidents with drunk driving, so it was decided that the town would change its religion to Evangelicalism. Since Evagelicacists don't drink, problem solved. The town partied less and worked more. Prosperity continued and misfortune seem to dwindle. Surrounding towns took this as if the change of religion brought wealth. Let's just say that quite a few more Evangelican churches were built and filled with people.

Enough of this religion talk and on to the good stuff. We walked through the vast fields and watched the people work. We got some great pictures. One was of a woman who was working with a bunch of other people to wash off these humongous carrots and package them up. Almost all work in the fields was done by hand; irrigation consisted of shoveling water from streams and throwing it over the crops.


DAY 9 wed, 2

Our thrid day of class was uneventful. In the evening, we attended a cooking class at the school. On the menu were pupusas; cheese and spinach "pancakes" made from cornflour, spinach and carrot salad, and a few bottles of red wine. We still made it back in time to the home-stay to catch dinner.

DAY 10 thurs, 3

After class at 2:30, we climbed onto a chicken bus for the town of Zunil just outside Xela. Upon arriving, the eight of us squeezed onto a pickup bed for the 4 kilometer ride up to Las Fuentes Georginas, hot volcán springs. We could see steam shoots from the ground and smells of sulfur during the trip there.
A cloud of steam hung over the pool as the water was like a spa. It got warmer as you ventured closer to the rock wall where the spring emptied into the pool. It was the first hot water either of us had since leaving the states and I´ll bet the last until we return. Garreth, our U.K. friend from the home-stay was there. He was staying the night one of the surrounding huts and had access to the pool during after hours when the spring was closed to the public.

DAY 11 fri, 4

Today we had dinner at school. While it was cooking, Kylie, myself and others climbed up to the roof where we could overlook the Centeral Park. The Guate City Orchestra was holding a concert there so the park was packed full of spectators.
Although we are getting used to the report of fireworks since they are a fequent occurance in Xela (at any time of the day), the firework display tonight was still impressive. We turned in early after the meal; we had an early day ahead.

DAY 12 sat, 5

Woke up before the sunrise (4:00 AM) to be at school for hike up nearby volcán Santa María. We had a quick pickup ride to the outskirts of Xela and began our hike by 5 AM. Two local dogs joined us in the hike most likely in hopes of food. The sun was up well before we finished our trek up to the summit; Marvin, the school director, said it was a 9 kilometer trip, each way. Nearing the top, we stopped almost every 100 feet; the air was thin and breathing became quite the chore. The summit of Santa María is 3,772 meters (12,447.6 feet) high. By comparison, here in Xela we are at 7,827.6 feet.

There was quite a few other locals at the top when we arrived. The volcán is a holly site in Mayan religion; several groups of pilgrams were prying and constructing shrines. We were told that on a clear day you can see the Pacific from here. It was quite windy and coldest we had been since coming to Guatemala. Shortly after taking pics on the summit, the active volcán Santíaguito erupted; this happens aproximatly every hour. These pictures do little to capture the event, but did make the climb worthwhile.



We had the perfect view and the clouds stayed away just long enough. We remained here for about 3 hours (even slept a little) before our 2 hour hike down. It was quite striking to see the gross amount of trash littered on the trails, especially considering the sacredness of the volcán. One of the dogs came with us down, waiting up for us when it got too far ahead. We made it to the home-stay by early afternoon. I slept till dinnertime and tried to drag Kylie out into town but it was in vain.

DAY 13 sun, 6

This morning we ate breakfast at Otime Cafe, on a second story terrace that looks over the park. Kylie and I people watched and otherwize took our time. It is the last day of home stay and we walked across town to buy flowers for our Guatemalan family. Our bargining skills proved pretty weak, nuff said. Around 2 in the afternoon we moved into apartment, dropped off our huge backpacks, and made our way over to a market to buy groceries and cleaning supplies at the supermarket. Kylie was appalled by my level of cleanliness and kept siting examples of how I´m gross (wear shoes on the bed, but needed to scrub the dish-drying rack for a half hour). It was quite the task and took a couple hours, but now we can make it dirty over the next month. These pictures were not intended for the blog but for evidence of the apartment´s condition for the security deposit; hence the reason Kylie is not looking at the camera, but trying to read the lease in Spanish.
I tried cooking a veggie stirfry with rice to only dicover that the kitchen utensils were crap. After that episode, I vowed to buy a non-stick skillet to just make the next month that much easier at the apartment. Here is our electic showerhead heater, a common item in any home where you don't want your showers to be enjoyable.

DAY 14 mon 7

Started our 2nd week of school. After class, we jumped onto a shuttle bus across town to Cemco, Guatemala´s take on a "big-box store." We bought a non-stick skillet and glass baking pan for about $12. Next we wandered through a nearby market looking for produce. Beets, green beans, tomatoes and avacados. We later learned here was a "dangerous" market to go to from Kylie´s teacher. Opps! Met a native named Wilfredy and his Oklahoma friend James on shuttle back and exchanged numbers; he said he could help us find surf school in Champorico when we leave Xela, but Kylie is apprehensive, saying he´ll push religion on us after he said "God bless you" for a farewell. We´ll see what happens by the new year. We made it back in time for Kylie to attends informational meeting with volunteer organization at a woman´s shelter. She came back excited and will likely work there over the next few weeks. By 5 we joined our English friends from school, Feliz, Christan and Luke, for beers at Utetcun Salon. We were introduced to the card game shithead, the U.K. verson of asshole. Back at the apatment, we made quesaedillas for dinner with the new cookware (well recieved).

DAY 15 tues 8

After class, kylie visited the daycare center of her volenterr group. The gas in apartment ktichen runs out at 2 while I try to make lunch. We end up waiting till 8 for new tank since the landlady was not in. We decide to eat out as a result at Casa Babaylon. They have a menu that includes nearly every ethnic food group. Ignoring the adive from our guide books about eating raw foods, we order a Cali sushi roll for apps, falafel wrap and veggie sandwich. We were nearly the only people eating there that night.

DAY 16 wends 9

When class ended, we finished the left overs from dinner the night before. Then went to the park and did some homework, sitting in the sun and people watching. Headed to the school by 4, when the cooking class began and worked on getting the blog up to date, added pictures for first time. Kylie helped in making food, I helped eat while blogging. I´m sorry for taking so long to get these photos posted for those of you who have followed our blog from the start. Be sure to check out the early postings to see pics of our first days here. Also, I´m am having trouble getting pics downloaded from Kylie´s camera just now (too bad, she´s got great pics of places I don´t) so we´ll have more, new pics in old posts shortly.

Day 4 : Antigua to Xela

We woke up at about 6am to go for a run with Tom to Cerro de la Cruz. It is a park overlooking Antigua with a big cross – a very popular postcard picture, but this is taken from the city streets. It is quite the uphill run, and after yesterday’s events I had to walk most of it. While sitting at the cross, we saw Frances’ (my puppy!) Guatemalan sister! After the run, we said goodbye to Tom, and he was off to meet the birth mother of his son Alex. (Alex was adopted from Guatemala when he was still baby and is back now to meet his two sisters and birth mother. Quite an experience for the whole family. We are sure it went well and can´t wait to hear about it!)

We ate breakfast at Doña Luisa Xicotencatl in their courtyard. I have to mention it – it was such a nice setting and good food. And it was right by Rain Forest tours, where we had to buy our tickets to Xela.

We did some last minute sight-seeing in Antigua and sat in the central park until getting back to the Hotel in time for the shuttle to pick us up at 2. However, the shuttle must have forgot us, and we were picked up by a jam-packed bus yet again at 3 by a different company.... This was just the beginning. Right before Panchjel, the traffic on the road came to a dead stop. There was some political protesting, and the roads were being blocked by the locals. We sat in the small little bus forever! We were nervous that we weren’t going to make it to Xela, but after a bus switch at a hectic Texaco station, we arrived in Xela around 8pm. Thanks to the delay, we met Tim from the U.K. who gave us some great advice and a couple from Canada whom shared our lack of spanish abilities.

We rented a room at Casa Argentias, which is quite the backpackers’ mecca. However, the last private room that was available was basically a storage room that was pretty shabby. We went with it anyways! For dinner, we navigated the streets to the famous El Sabor de India (obviously some Indian food), and it was very good. I will most definitely be returning for some more Dal and the cucumber yogurt dish! I have to mention that our huge meals, which we could not finish, accompanied by naan and two beers was a total of Q 147 or about US$ 21. Not so bad, eh? I don’t think we will have much trouble at all adjusting to life in Guatemala.

Day Numero Tres : Volcán Pacaya

Or day number three for you non-spanish speakers.

Happy Thanksgiving! This day was jam-packed with activities. We were trying to get in as much as we could while in Antigua: hanging out with the the Mayes fam, seeing some sights, and climbing Volcán Pacaya. Ofcourse, we had to go see the lava since there are only 2 other supposed places to see flowing lava (Hawaii and some place in Indonesia.) So here is goes...

We woke up at about 5:20am to get ready for the shuttle to take us up to the still active volcano. We were the second group to be picked up, but definitely not the last. By the time we left Antigua we had about 7 other groups of two with us. The mix was Guatemalans, Canadians, French, and Americans. We were all able to communicate quite easily since many of our fellow adventurers were tri-lingual. (Yes, we were very jealous!) After swapping stories and backgrounds, we came to find out just how small the world is...Jessica, whom also is from Massachusetts, was at one point the neighbor of a friend from Sandwich. Go figure.

So we start the hike by a store where a bunch of little kids are pushing walking sticks at you for 5Q saying "You want a stick" "Es necessario" Brian and I resisted especially after they crowded around Jessica wanting her to buy the stick from them and not another. We met our guía named José and started the ascent. José named our groups "The Pumas," so as not to get confused with another group. Todd from Colorado loved this name and had many roars and poses to contribute.

It took us about a hour and a half to get to the top. It was a strenuous hike that was mostly uphill. However, should you not be able to make it, there were a group of locals with horses to assist you for a fee up until the ashy ascent. But never fear, the local dogs followed us right up the treacherous path of loose lava rocks and ash to the flowing magma. I´m sure they followed us in hopes of food, but also to lay on top of the harded lava that was heated from the magma underneath. At the top, we were able to get as close as we dared to the magma river to capture pictures, roast marshmellos, and feel the heat. The heat was extreme. José told us the magma is about 2,000 degrees - perfect for s´mores! After hanging at the windy top for awhile, we started our descent, which took about the same time. A few "Pumas" took a digger coming down, but were well attended to by the Guatemalan medical crew onsite at the park. It wouldn´t have been complete without José hiding in the woods shaking the branches and scaring half the group! Good times had by all!

We got back to the hotel with just enough time to shower and head over to O.X. by 2:30. They had the bikes tuned up and some sandwiches to munch. It was a short ride out of Antigua to Paraíso Azul, fresh water pools, where we began our hike up Parque de Palmeras. We were alone for the hike while the guides trucked the bikes up to where we would meet them. The hike was through jungle forest, with dense vegetation and noisey birds. We didn´t see birds in the trees but got some pics of hummingbirds at feeders. There were so many you could clearly hear the beat of their wings.
Almost the entire trail was endless stairs acending the slop. It was a little challenging after volcán pacaya this morning.
We rode up closer to the summit in the pickup´s bed after reaching the guides. The truck driver keep stopping and our guide had to coax him to continue up further. The ride down was fast; we rested half way at some cabanas and had lunch.
Kylie stayed dry while I took a dip in the fresh water pools. Burr! After Gallos (local beer) with the guides, we returned to Antigua and our hotel.

We took a little rest before heading out to eat. Fireworks and church bells were going off in the city which we later learned happened the last thursday on the month. Dinner at Helas, a greek style establishment, was outside in their courtyard. We ordered falafel gyros, our first real meal today! Tired from being up so long, we crashed out early since we would run with Tom in the morning.